Ok.does anyone have any idea why it won't move? I put vaseline on the check balls when I put the valve body back on.I did this for all of them. Something weird when I initially removed the piston there was no spring behind the piston.is this normal?

I did the 4th accumulator mod and reversed the piston and put the spring supplied in the bore. This is my first time having the valve body off a transmission.so I am green -). I should have taken a picture of this, but just to confirm.when I put the roll pin back in it goes through the little hole at the end of the bushing, and the hole is at the top.right? I'm just running things through my head and now I'm second guessing myself. I did have the 1-2 accum bushing and valve removed, but I put the original spring back in. I added the plain spring (supplied) to the 3-2 control valve and they said I could leave these as they are. I didn't plan on switching any springs later anyways. I didn't take the rest of this valve apart, and did not use their special pin. I added the yellow spring to the torque valve. I added the extra spring behind the pressure control solenoid. I had done these mods below already and they said I could leave these mods. I installed the upgraded lockup valve to replace the one that is worn. 093 on the separator plate.the two holes on the lower far left in the diagram. They had told me to drill out two holes to. So before I called them I had done the 1-2 accumulator modification, hadn't touched the servo. After talking to the Transgo line twice, they said I didn't have to do the entire kit if I just wanted to get rid of the code. Now this is just a daily driver and I didn't really want to change the shift characteristics. It was working fine when it was cold before I 'fixed it', but after about a half hour of driving time it would not go into lockup, and sometimes would go into limp mode. Bought the Transgo SK 4L60E shift kit to fix the dreaded P-1870 code.

Transgo 4l60e shift kit instructions